EP002: DIY Destinations – Jerusalem

  • Jerusalem, (Occupied East Jerusalem and New Jerusalem)
  • Producer, Camera and Host: Charles Huang
  • Special Mini-Episode
  • Running Time: 16 minutes 30 seconds
  • Filmed: November 2015
  • Sponsor: Citadel Youth Hostel Jerusalem (Accommodations)

Table of Content – DIY Destinations Jersualem – Transcript:

  • Episode Background
  • History and Political Status
  • Transportation from Ben Gurion Airport (Tel Aviv) to Old City
  • Public Transportation Options
    • Jerusalem Central Bus Station
    • East Jerusalem Central Bus Station (Arab/Palestinian Bus Station)
  • General Recommendations:
    • Free Walking Tour
    • Free Audio Guide
    • Security Advice for Arab and Muslim looking men
  • Inexpensive Foods
  • Old Jerusalem Quarters (Day 1 & 2)
    • Christian Quarter
      • Jaffa Gate
      • Church of the Holy Sepulchre
      • Mosque of Omar
    • Muslim Quarter
      • Lion’s Gate
      • Ecce Homo Church
      • Armenian Catholic Patriarchate
      • Sweet Treats
      • Damascus Gate
      • Herod’s Gate
    • Jewish Quarter
      • Western Wall and Plaza
      • Temple Mount (Dome of Rock and al-Aqsa Mosque
      • Jerusalem Archaeological Park
      • Hurva Synagogues
      • Cardo
    • Armenian Quarter
      • Cathedral of St. Jame
      • Roof Walk
      • Tower of David
    • Temple Mount
      • Dome of the Rock
      • Al-Aqsa Mosque
    • Mount of Olives
  • New Jerusalem (Day 3):
    • Yad Vashem The Holocaust Museum
    • Knesset, Wohl Rose Park and Bird Observatory
    • Supreme Court of Israel
View of Temple Mount from the Mount of Olivies
View of Temple Mount from the Mount of Olives

Episode Background: initially we wanted to solely to do a episode featuring Israel, including Jerusalem.  However, given the special status of this city claimed by both Israel and Palestine, we are unable to do a episode on Israel without Jerusalem, and we can not cover Jerusalem without featuring Palestine.  This is to preserve our position of non-basis and neutral as to status of this ancient city.  However, given the length of the program and political consideration, we decided to break up the extended episode into two smaller full episode featuring Israel, Palestine and a mini-special episode for Jerusalem, without mentioning its status.

History and Political Status:

Jerusalem is one of the world oldest cities in the world, located on a plateau in the Judean Mountains between the Mediterranean and the Dead Sea.  It contains holy sites to all of the world’s three major religion, Judaism, Christianity and Islam.  Although not widely recognized internationally to the sovereignty of Jerusalem claimed by both Israel and Palestine, both side claims it was their capital, with Israel maintains its government institution including its parliament Knesset and the Supreme Court in the city, while Palestinian ultimately envision it was their seat of their future government.

Transportation from Tel Aviv and Ben Gurion Airport to Old Jerusalem

Green Public Buses Operated by Israel's National Bus Company Egged
Green Public Buses Operated by Israel’s National Bus Company Egged

Public Buses

  • The most inexpensive option is using a public transportation operated by Israel’s national inter-city bus provider Egged.  Depending on the traffic, the average journey takes approximately 1 hour and 15 minutes each to and from Jerusalem Central Bus Station.
  • Once exiting the airport, a Egged Bus No. 5 will shuttle you to Airport City (El Al Junction), it cost NIS 5 or approximately $1.20
  • Transfer on to Bus 947 or 423 to Jerusalem Central Bus Station, cost NIS 21.50 or $5.50
  • Exit the Jerusalem Central Bus Station and walk across to take a tram operated by Jerusalem Light Rail toward Heil Ha-Avir.  Either get off at the City Hall for Jaffa Gate or Damascus Gate, the full adult fare is NIS 6.90 or $1.75
  • None of the public transportation has service on Sabbath from 3:00 pm on Friday to Saturday evening
Sheruts or Shared Taxi Mini-van
Sheruts or Shared Taxi Mini-van

Sheruts (Shared Taxi Van)

  • This is a mini-van that leaves when it is full or someone who offers pay for the empty seat.  It operates all times of the day, including on Sabbath.
  • It takes you directly to your address in Jerusalem for NIS 65 or $17.00 (except in Arab neighborhoods) or NIS 24 to Zion Square in downtown and journey is approximately 1 hour without traffic
  • The drawback, it only leaves when every seat on the bus is occupied, therefore wait time to departure varies unless you or someone offers to pay for the vacant seat.

Public Transportation

Jerusalem is pretty divided even in transportation, buses either goes to Arab neighborhood and Palestinian cities in West Bank or serves West Jerusalem and the inter-city to other cities and settlements in Israel.  Regardless, buses do not run on Sabbath one before sunset on Friday and resume Saturday evening one hour after sunrise.  Typically, Egged buses’ last bus are 3:00 pm Friday.

  • Jerusalem Central Bus Station
    • Located at 227 Jaffa Rd
    • Jerusalem Light Rail Stop: Central Bus Station
    • Serves Egged, Superbus and Dan intercity bus routes to all parts of Israel
  • East Jerusalem Central Bus Station
    • There is two Arab Bus Stations
    • Station left to Damascus Gate on Sultan Suleiman Street
      • Departs for Bethlehem, Beit Jala, Silwan-Abu Tor, Hebron
      • Blue and White Buses
    • Straight across from Damascus Gate on Nablus Road
      • Departs for Ramallah, Emmaus-Kubeibeh, Nablus, Qalandia, Taybeth, Isawiyya and Sheikh Jarrah / Beit Hanina
    • Arab Bus Stop
      • Right of Damascus Gate
      • Serves Arab Neighborhood within Jerusalem
      • Bethany, Mount of Olives, Jericho and Abu Dis

General Recommendations:

  • Free Walking Tour, if you have less than two days or less to spend in Jerusalem, we recommend you take on one of the few free tours offered in different days of week, theses tours are run base on tip or donation basis.
    • New Jerusalem Tours – Offers tours daily outside Jaffa Gate at 11:00 am and 2:00 pm
    • Official Jerusalem Tour – Offers by Jerusalem Development Authority (JDA) every Saturday on Safra Square (26 Yaffo Street) at 10 am
  • We recommend you take your time and enjoy Jerusalem on your own pace if have three or more days.  Jerusalem Development Authority also offers free audio walking tour for both iOS and Androd devices:
Random Arab or Muslim Looking Men getting stopped by police.
Random Arab or Muslim Looking Men getting stopped by police.
  • Security Advice for Arabs and Muslims VisitorsUnfortunately, given recent knife attacks and stabbings.  Police are very pro-active in stopping and questioning random suspicious person.  We are not trying to suggest police in Jerusalem are racists, but base on our experience in Old City, but we only seeing Arab and Muslim looking men get stopped over and over again.  Therefore, if you Muslim or Arab looking, I recommend you wear as least as possible.  If you do get stopped, don’t be confrontational since these police can make your situation very uncomfortable, racial profiling is the sad reality of life in Israel.

Inexpensive Foods

Unfortunately, the Old City is one of the biggest tourist trap in Israel.  Absolutely everything is overpriced.  This old man was selling the popular Arabs sesame covered bread called ka’ak for NIS 6 and jumbo falafel for NIS 6.

Overpriced Street Vendor selling jumbo falafel and ka'ak outside Jaffa Gate
Overpriced Street Vendor selling jumbo falafel and ka’ak outside Jaffa Gate

But if you just walk outside the Damascus Gate, you’ll be surrounded by cheap food and able to get the same jumbo falafel for NIS 2 and ka’ak for NIS 3, more than half the price of you pay inside the Old City.  I recommend you visit Sultan Suleiman Street where you also find lots of fresh fruits and local Arab eateries, its very close to the two Arab Bus Stations.

Kanafeth, a levantine cheese pastry soaked in sweet, sugar-based syrup, typical of the regions belonging to the former Ottoman Empire.
Kanafeth, a levantine cheese pastry soaked in sweet, sugar-based syrup, typical of the regions belonging to the former Ottoman Empire.

One of the famous sweets such as baklava, and other pastries is Jafar Sweets in business since 1951, they are famous for their kanafeh, cheese pastry soaked in sweet, sugar-based syrup, typical of the regions belonging to the former Ottoman Empire.

Everything in the store is NIS5 including rice, pasta, salads, shakes and other hot and cold drinks
Everything in the store is NIS5 including rice, pasta, salads, shakes and other hot and cold drinks

However, if you like healthy fast food, there is two companies called Cofix (I presume stands for Fixed Price Coffee) and Cofizz, a chain of Israeli supermarket, bar and express eateries that offers soups, salad, rice, pasta, coffee and even beers for fixed price of NIS 5 or $1.20.  These can be found all over New Jerusalem, the closest Cofix is located just right across from City Hall Stop few minutes walk from Jaffa Gate.

Old Jerusalem

The Old Jerusalem is where most of the attractions are located, all areas are easily accessible by foot.  I recommend you’ll spend two full days to visit all four quarters of the Old City.  Unless stated, beware of bogus ticket sellers, all attractions, holy sites and religious sites can be access for FREE or advance ticket purchase.  Although, I’ll list all the “must-see” places in Jerusalem, we encourage to discover other off the beaten path places if you got time.  We’ll be begin by visit Christian Quarter.

Old Jerusalem Map of Christian Quarter
Old Jerusalem Map of Christian Quarter

Christian Quarter

  • Jaffa Gate (Begin)
Church of the Holy Sepulcher
Church of the Holy Sepulcher
  • Church of the Holy Sepulchre
    • one of two holiest sites in Christendom: the site where Jesus of Nazareth was crucified
    • Saint Helena Street
    • Summer Hours (April-September)
      • Sundays: 5:00 am 8:00 pm
      • Monday-Saturday:  5:00 am – 9:00 pm
    • Winter Hours (October-March)
      • Sundays 4:00 am – 7.00 pm
      • Monday-Saturday: 4:00 am – 7.00 pm
    • http://www.holysepulchre.custodia.org
Umar Mosque
Umar Mosque (Omar)
  • Mosque of Omar, located across from the courtyard of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.  Build in 1193 in the memory of After the Siege of Jerusalem in 637 where Patriarch Sophronius refused to surrender except to the Caliph Omar (579-644) himself. Omar traveled to Jerusalem and accepted the surrender.
  • Courtyard is open 24 hours a day
Old Jerusalem Map of Muslim Quarter
Old Jerusalem Map of Muslim Quarter

Muslim Quarter

Lions Gate Jerusalem
Lions Gate Jerusalem
  • Lion’s Gate (Begin), the entrance marks the beginning of the traditional Christian observance of the last walk of Jesus from prison to crucifixion.
Ecce Homo Church
Ecce Homo Church
  • Ecce Homo Church
    • Roman Catholic church on Via Dolorosa along the path that according to tradition Jesus walked, carrying his cross, on the way to his crucifixion.
    • Via Dolorosa Station 41
Armenian Catholic Patriarchate
Armenian Catholic Patriarchate
  • Armenian Catholic Patriarchate
    • a small chapel belong to Armenian Catholic Patriarchate marks the Third stations where Jesus believe have fallen for the first of the three times.
Damascus Gate
Damascus Gate
  •  Damascus Gate
    • one of the main entrances to the Old City, built in 1537 under the rule of Suleiman the Magnificent
    • East Jerusalem Central Bus Stations to Arab Neighborhoods and Palestinian Cities located right across
Old Jerusalem Maps of Jewish Quarter
Old Jerusalem Maps of Jewish Quarter

Jewish Quarter

Western Wall Plaza
Western Wall Plaza
  • Western Wall, Tunnel and Plaza
    • The most significant landmark of the Jewish religion and symbol of the Old City of Jerusalem, the Western Wall (or the Wailing Wall) is the last remaining remnant of the Second Temple built by Herod the Great around 19 BCE.  It is the holiest site for Jews to pray.
    • Opens 24 hours a day for Plaza
    • Wall Tunnel: Sunday to Thursday 9:30am – 5pm, Sun – Fri. Closed during Jewish holidays
Jerusalem Archaeological Park
Jerusalem Archaeological Park
  • Jerusalem Archaeological Park
    • Just to the south of the Western Wall. In fact, the bit of the wall on the left.  The original road and stairs leading to Temple Mount existed in this location over 2000 years ago.
    • Free section opens 24 hours a day
    • Located near Dung Gate
Hurva Synagogue
Hurva Synagogue
  • Hurva Synagogues
    • Completed in 1721, the source of its name, which literally means ‘The Ruin, the synagogue was also destroyed for the first time, lying in ruins for more than 140 years.  The first rebuilding of the synagogue was in 1864
    • 89 Hayehudim Rd
Jerusalem Cardo
Jerusalem Cardo
  • Cardo
    • Located near to the Synagogues is where a Roman Cardo was discovered and dates back to Justinian in the first half of the 6th c. A.D. The Cardo was depicted in the 6th century mosaic map of Jerusalem on a church floor in Madaba, Jordan. The central street has lined on both sides with columns. Today a portion of the Cardo has been rebuilt as a modern shopping lane. Jewish storekeepers sell fancy souvenirs and keepsakes to tourists.
    • Open Hours 24 Hours
    • Free Admission

Armenian Quarter

Old Jerusalem Maps of Armenian Quarter
Old Jerusalem Maps of Armenian Quarter
Cathedral of St. James
Cathedral of St. James
  • Cathedral of St. James
    • Dedicated to two Christian saints: James the Greater, and the James the Just.   This ancient church, part of which dates to 420 AD is one of the most decorated places of worship in the Holy Land.
    • Summer Hours (April-September)
      • Monday-Friday, Sunday:  6:30 am to 7:30 pm
      • Saturday: 6:30 am to 9:30 pm
    • Winter Hours (October-March)
      • Monday-Friday, Sunday:  6:30 am to 7:30 pm
      • Saturday: 6:30 am to 9:30 pm
  • Roof Walk
    • In this quarter, you can sightseeing from above by roof walking, where you’ll get a breathtaking eastward view of Temple Mount and Mount of Olives. We recommend you enter from from the narrow metal steps on the right as you walk down Rehov Chabad just as it meets St Mark’s Street.
  • Tower of David
    • Before leaving the Old Jerusalem, we pass by another iconic landmark Tower of David, also known as the Jerusalem Citadel, is an ancient citadel located near the Jaffa Gate. It contains important archaeological finds dating back over 2,000 years dating back to the First Temple period.
The Dome of the Rock on Temple Mount
The Dome of the Rock on Temple Mount

Temple Mount (Dome of Rock and al-Aqsa Mosque)

  • The most important religious site in the Old Jerusalem, at least four religious traditions are believed to occurred in Temple Mount to Judaism, Greco-Roman paganism, Christianity, and Islam.  The present site is dominated by three monumental structures, including  the al-Aqsa Mosque, the Dome of the Rock and the Dome of the Chain.  Line up early to avoid crowd.
  • Summer Hours (April-September)
    • Sunday to Thursday:  8:30 am – 11:30 am, 1:30 pm – 2:30 pm
  • Winter Hours (October-March)
    • Sunday to Thursday: 7:30am – 10:30am and 12:30pm – 1:30pm
View from Mount of Olives
View from Mount of Olives

Mount of Olives

To get the really breathtaking view of the Old Jerusalem from Mount of Olives. From the top of mountain, near the Seven Arches Hotel, is a remarkable vista point. You’ll be treated to great panorama of the city and the hillside, covered by 150,000 graves on Jewish cemetery dating back 3,000 years. Several key events in the life of Jesus, as related in the Gospels, took place here, included Jesus ascended to heaven.

  • Take the Bus 75 at the Arab Bus Stop to the right of Damascus Gate

New Jerusalem

Yad Vashem
Yad Vashem
  • Yad Vashem The Holocaust Museum
    • Israel’s official memorial to the victims of the Holocaust. Established in 1953, Yad Vashem is located on the western slope of Mount Herzl on the Mount of Remembrance in Jerusalem
    • Free Admission and Free Shuttle from Mount Herzl
    • Bus to Mount Herzl bus stop: 10, 16, 20, 23, 24, 26, 26a, 27, 27a, 28, 28a, 29, 33, 25, 39, 150, final stop for Jerusalem Light Rail
    • Sunday to Wednesday: ‬09:00 to 5:00 pm, Thursday:  9:00 to 8:00 pm, Fridays and Holiday eves: ‬9:00 to 2:00 pm, closed on Saturdays and all Jewish Holidays
Knesset chamber
Knesset chamber
  • Knesset
    • Although, we do not take any political positions, most members of United Nations General Assembly do not recognize Jerusalem as the capital of Israel. However, the reality is Jerusalem is administrative capital and seats of all branches of Israeli government. The Knesset; the parliament is center of its political power.
    • Tour:  Free Tours for Individuals are available on Sunday and Thursday in multiple languages. Reservation is not required but all visitors must provide a valid passport. The one hour tours provide an overview on the history, role and responsibilities of the Knesset. Visitors will have an opportunity to visit many part of the building including, The Knesset Committee Rooms, the Assembly Chamber, and the display of the Declaration of Independence.
      • Tour Hours: Sundays and Thursdays, 08:30 am to 2:00 pm, Hebrew: 10:00, 11:00, 13:00, English: 8:30, 12:00, 14:00, Arabic: 13:30, French: 13:00, Russian: 11:00, Spanish: 10:00, German: 8:30
Supreme Court of Israel
Supreme Court of Israel
  • Supreme Court of Israel
    • Situated across from the Knesset is the Supreme Court of Israel which jurisdiction applies to all of Israel and the occupied territories. The building was donated to Israel by Dorothy de Rothschild and opened in 1992. The restored mosaic at the entrance to the building was discovered at the ancient synagogue of Hamat Gader.
    • Free Tour: Sunday through Thursday for individuals: 11:00 Hebrew, 12:00 English
Wohl Rose Park
Wohl Rose Park

Wohl Rose Park and Jerusalem Bird Observatory

To the opposite of the Knesset and Supreme Court is the Wohl Rose Park containing 400 varieties of roses are grown there, many of them gifts from countries around the world. It also includes an ancient mosaic preserved in the garden and the Knesset Menorah is located outside the park, facing the Knesset. Below the stairs also lies the Jerusalem Bird Observatory, as every spring and fall more than 500 million birds migrate through Israel. Two-thirds of the species seen in Jerusalem are migratory.